Fabric Varieties

If you can’t find it here, you will not find it anywhere else, on earth!

We offer an unbelievable, unimaginable, and unrivalled, range of eco-friendly hand-woven selvedge denim fabrics, including organic cotton denim, woven on traditional shuttle looms, without using any electrically operated machines in the entire process.

Eco-denim Fabric Varieties

Our diverse range includes all possible combinations of yarn type, viz. hand-spun, mill-spun regular, mill-spun slub, and dyes, extracted from natural sources, like indigo plant, marigold flower petals, pomegranate rind, and many more.

We also offer undyed fabric, in natural color of cotton, in all varieties.

We also produce and supply handloom denim fabric made out of organic cotton on specific requests.

The wide range and diverse variety in the fabrics offered by us can be overwhelming, to say the least. We have grouped and categorized the fabric varieties, and enumerated these in the sections below. The grouping is based on various inputs that go into the making of these fabrics, and / or the process stages followed during production.

Based on Fabric Weight

Denim Club offers eco-friendly hand-woven selvedge denim fabric in weights ranging from 150 GSM (4.5 oz/ sq yard) to 450 GSM (13.5 Oz / sq yard). The fabrics can be grouped in three broad categories – light, medium and heavy weight.

The primary factor which determines the weight of a fabric is the fineness of yarn (count) used in warp and weft, and the yarn density along the warp and weft – generally known as EPI (ends per inch) and PPI (picks per inch). If fine yarns are used, the weight of the fabric is less, and if coarse yarns are used, the weight of the fabric is more.

Light Weight

4.5 – 6 oz / 150-200 gsm

Premium light weight handloom selvedge denim fabric, weighing between 4.5 to 6 oz per sq yard (150-200gsm), woven out of fine mill spun / hand-spun yarn in warp and weft.

One of our specialties, we highly recommend this light weight fabric for Shirts, Dresses, Kurta, Stoles, Scarves, and more.

Medium Weight

6 – 10 oz / 200-340 gsm

Highly versatile, medium weight handloom selvedge denim fabric, weighing between 6 to 10 oz per sq yard (200-340gsm), woven out of mill spun / hand-spun yarn in warp and weft.

We recommend the medium weight selvedge denim fabrics for Jeans, Jackets, Shackets, Trousers, and more. These fabrics can also be used for making fashion accessories and in home furnishing.

Heavy Weight

10+ Oz / 340+ gsm

Premium heavy weight handloom selvedge denim fabric, weighing more than 10 oz per sq yard (340 gsm), woven out of mill spun / hand-spun yarn in warp and weft.

We recommend the heavy weight selvedge denim fabrics for Jeans, Jackets, Shackets, Trousers, and more. These fabrics can also be used for making fashion accessories and in home furnishing.

Based on Yarn Type

There are primarily two types of yarn used for weaving denim on handlooms. One is the yarn that is spun in a textile spinning mill (mill-spun yarn), and the other is spun manually by hand (hand-spun yarn).

Fabric made from hand-spun yarn is generally known as KHADI DENIM, and the fabric made from mill-spun yarns is known as Handloom Denim.

It must be noted that even though both these varieties are woven on manually operated looms, in an almost similar process, weaving Khadi Denim on handlooms requires a very specialized skill-set.

Mill-spun Yarn

HANDLOOM DENIM

Within the mill-spun yarn category, there are two broad sub-categories:

  • Regular Yarn – the fineness or thickness of the yarn remains the same all along its length
  • Slub Yarn – the fineness or thickness of the yarn varies along the length, thicker portions (slubs) repeat at regular intervals making the yarn un-even along the length

Quite frequently, different combinations of yarns are used for making different varieties of fabric, like:

  •  Regular yarn of same count in both warp and weft
  • Regular yarn of different counts in warp and weft
  • Regular yarn in warp, slub yarn in weft
  • Slub yarn in warp, regular yarn in weft
  • Slub yarn of same count in both warp and weft
  • Slub yarn of different counts in warp and weft

Hand-spun Yarn

KHADI DENIM

There are at least two sub-types of hand-spun yarn, based on the process used for making the yarn.

One is the traditional hand-spun yarn which is spun directly from a hand-made sliver, and the other is a newer variant which is spun on a modified manual spinning machine from a mill-made roving.

Most of the times, the hand-spun yarn is used in weft, while the warp is set-up using mill-spun yarn.

We specialize in weaving a premium variant of khadi denim in which we use hand-spun yarn in warp as well.

The inherent variations in thickness of the hand-spun impart an interesting surface texture to Khadi Denim fabric. At the same time, due to the low twisting of fibers in the yarn, the khadi denim fabric has a very soft hand-feel, high breathability and very high moisture absorption, making it very comfortable for the wearer.

Based on Dyeing

Cotton fibers, in the native state, are off-white or creamish in color. There is no doubt in the fact that the natural color of cotton is very soothing to the eyes, and has a charm and grace of its own. However, coloring of textiles has a history spanning thousands of years.

We offer hand-woven selvedge denim in the natural color of cotton, as well as in other colors.

In the case of fabrics in the natural color of cotton, the yarns are used as such, without any dyeing. For colored fabrics, the dyeing is done either before weaving (yarn dyeing), or after the fabric has been woven (fabric dyeing).

Undyed

Natural Color of Cotton / White

The yarn used for weaving these fabrics are un-dyed, usually in the natural color of cotton, which is off-white or creamish. Both warp and weft are used undyed, and the resulting fabric is made without using any harmful chemicals in the process.

In some cases, on specific requirement, the yarns are bleached to get a bright white color.

Yarn Dyed

Different Colors

The yarns used for weaving these varieties of hand-woven selvedge denim fabrics are dyed before weaving.

Mostly, the warp yarns are dyed and the weft yarns are used un-dyed. In some cases, the weft yarns are also dyed – either in same color as warp, or in a different color.

The dyes used for coloring the yarns can be either azo-free reactive dyes, or eco-friendly vegetable dyes, or up-cycled organic vegetable dyes.

Fabric Dyed

Different Colors

The yarns used for weaving are un-dyed / white. After the weaving has been done, the fabric is desized / bleached as per requirement and then dyed.

Various dyes are used for dyeing the fabric, viz. azo-free reactive dyes, fresh vegetable base dyes, and up-cycled vegetable / organic dyes.

Based on Dye Used

Chemical-free dyes and eco-friendly dyeing are central to the whole thought of sustainability.

We use a wide variety of eco-friendly organic vegetable dyes, some of which are up-cycled from organic waste material. In the chemical based dyes segment, we use azo-free reactive dyes for our eco-friendly denim fabrics.

Azo-free Reactive

Chemical Base Eco-friendly Dye

We use azo-free reactive dyes for dyeing yarn, or fabric, as required.

These are low-impact dyes, which have a synthetic chemical base but are designed to be least harmful for the environment.

In the case of azo-free reactive dyes, t is possible to get the same color palette as conventional dyes while avoiding certain chemical and metal compounds.

We offer denim made using azo-free reactive dyes in almost all the colors – black, brown, blue, green, red, beige, and so on.

Fresh Vegetable Dye

Organic Dye

We extensively use various vegetable / organic dyes having their origin in mother nature, viz. blue dye extracted from the indigo plants, red dye extracted from the roots of madder plant.

Organic / vegetable dyes – having their origin in natural raw materials – offer an  advantage over synthetic (chemical based) dyes as they are bio-degradable and non-toxic.

The color palette in this category includes multiple shades of blue – from very light to very dark tones, light pink, blood red, and more.

9 Oz Khadi Selvedge Denim - Rosy Brown - Organic Dye - Onion Skin

Up-cycled Vegetable Dye

Organic Dye

Topping the list from the sustainability point of view, up-cycled vegetable dyes are the best option.

We regularly use dyes which have been up-cycled from various organic waste material like onion skins, pomegranate rind, eucalyptus tree leaves, marigold flower petals, etc.

The color palette offered by us in this category includes a wide range of earthy colors like mellow yellow, rosy brown, green, and more, all of which are very soothing and graceful.

Some Examples

Handloom Selvedge Denim – 4.5 Oz – Airforce Blue – Indigo Plant

SKU: LWHD-FB-3030-AB-NI

  • Weight: Light (4.5 Oz / 150 GSM)
  • Warp: 30s Single, Mill-spun, 100% Cotton, Dyed
  • Weft: 30s Single, Mill-spun, 100% Cotton, Undyed
  • Dye: Natural
  • Dye Source: Indigo Plant
  • Std. Width: 40 inches (100 cm) approx.

Khadi Selvedge Denim – 9.0 Oz – Dark Green – Onion Skins (Fabric Dyed)

SKU: MWKD-FBD-1010-DG-OS

  • Weight: Medium (9 Oz / 300 GSM)
  • Warp: 10s Single, Hand-spun, 100% Cotton, Undyed
  • Weft: 10s Single, Hand-spun, 100% Cotton, Undyed
  • Dye: Natural, Up-cycled
  • Dye Source: Onion Skins
  • Std. Width: 40 inches (100 cm) approx.

Khadi Selvedge Denim – 9.0 Oz – Off White (Ready for Dyeing)

SKU: MWKD-FB-1010-OW

  • Weight: Medium (9 Oz / 300 GSM)
  • Warp: 10s Single, Hand-spun, 100% Cotton, Undyed
  • Weft: 10s Single, Hand-spun, 100% Cotton, Undyed
  • Std. Width: 40 inches (100 cm) approx.

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